Teigdalselvi - Norway

Mariann Sæther reminds us of what whitewater dreams are made of -Teigdalselvi, Norway

NONE of these incredible photos would be possible without the determination and eddyless probing of many drops from the Norwegian creek slayer and fine photo g Benjamin Hjort.

Those who have made the journey or have been born lucky can fully attest to Norway's epic whitewater ownage. Yet almost no other creek in Norway truly represents this fact more than what is found up in the Teigdal valley a short distance from the town of Voss.


Andy Phillips firing the day off - entry falls.

Norway's Teigdalselvi is what class V paddling really exemplifies. It's that steep gleaming Rolls Royce of-a creek that grabs your utmost attention on the first paddle stroke. Blazing adrenaline within 300 meters, huge slides, clean waterfalls and a world famous 60 foot conclusion to a day that renders your body at least comfortably broken, if not more.


Greg Dashper waxing the second slide.

And so one of the best Monday missions ever took place under perfect blue sky with an international and renowned cast. With Tyler, Mariann and Logan racing down from a flooded Sjoa valley to join the annual "once we were warriors" gathering, this years Teigdal pilgrimage would prove sizeable and include 5 new raw huck-meat faces. As the magical 'double drop' came into view at the takeout, the question would remain whether anyone would give in to the ultimate double plunge sacrifice when the big moment arrived.


Tyler Curtis looking to rejoin the crew just above the second falls.

Oddly enough, Norway's awesome guidebook hardly mentions what lurks above the takeout falls. Without the double drop even being thrown into the mix, the Teigdalselvi is still creek perfection. Loudly strumming a tune in between continuous technical class IV to something that goes a little like: box-entry 25, slide 30, slide 45, boof 20, wee-boof, portage 35, possible slide 50, drop a-many, damn ugly 35, auto 10, disappearing act 25.


Logan Grayling readys the pose for big expectations downstream.


TC staring into the face of the nasty 2for3 Notter drop.

As the afternoon sun beat down good lines and big smiles were across the board. However the flow was recognizably higher than when we had put on. This became quite apparent on the near vertical slide before double drop as each slightly different lead-in approach produced a similar go-deep-and-wonder result.


Heading into the 5 count cavity-clearing abyss.


Mikey Abbott - Multiple Teigdal descents and a sweet line leader above double drop.

Ultimately the misty gates to an unforgettable horizon line were before us, and the time of reckoning had come. As fresh meat dangled on the doorstep the legendary Mike Abbott and Benji Hjort took care of business early and rode the express elevator to the bottom in style. Original drop claimer Allan Ellard found a perch and pressed the media button and so it was time for the rest of the circus to take to the air.


Basso first six of sixty - got boof?

Highlights to a memorable double drop huck extravaganza included a BIG duffek stroke, 2 nail-biter left lines off the top, flying pigtails, Michele Ramazza's Italian precision, some bloody facial hair, the worlds fastest combat roll, and an unintended brace to freewheel demonstration from a po-dunk Canadian with an ugly van.




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Osola - Switzerland

Time to stay left on the Osola - Switzerland

Having to throw the kayak on the shoulder and spend an hour or more hiking to access the creeking goods is quite unheard of in the road developed backcountry of Switzerland. Yet for the Osola, hiking is defnitley worth the price of admission when the road stops and the bedrock slides appear up the valley.


Toro Rogenmoser heading into battle.

The Osola is a major tributary to the legendary Verzasca River in the heart of Switzerland’s Tessin region. Over the years the Osola has lured the likes of many big names in padding to its slides and has sent almost everyone home with either big grins, big swims, battered boats or aching bodies.


Julian Stocker in transition on the Osola.

After being to both, one could almost compare the action-packed low volume Osola to Montana’s Big Timber Creek. The hike is beautiful, the volume wee-bity and the gradient more than average. Still this is the Alps, and if the surrounding peaks, wildflowers and ancient homesteads presenting themselves don’t convince you that you're in Euro-paradise, then following quality Swiss kayakers down high alpine runs for 2 weeks certainly will.


Lucas Wielatt finds the auto-launch.

Severin Haberling - Swiss Alp home turf.

Finding the Osola is none harder than driving up along Val Verzasca, crossing over to the river right side of the valley and hitting the small town of Brione. If the main Verzasca is flowing above 20-25 cms then the Osola should go. Even if the creek under the road bridge appears to be a scrape of only a few cms, it won't necessarily be a sign of the paddleable levels found on the narrow bedrock slides well upstream.


Michelle Basso having a go on another flume.

From Brione a very narrow road winds along river left for about 4 kms until it ends at a most probable takeout for the Osola in splendid Swiss postcard fashion. Continuing up the same side of the valley on foot past the goats and rock fencing will reveal some of the steepness the Osola booms, including a gonzo slide with a partial landing zone.


Lukas Wielatt getting a good view.

Please mind the cave below on the right.

Even if this drop isn't to be found in your daily bag of tricks, the Osola hides many more surprises upstream. Although the trail gets quite steep in a few areas, it's worth the trudge until you're well past crossing the footbridge taking you to the opposite side of the creek.

Julian Stocker losing altitude near the put-in.

Although most of the rivers in the Swiss Tessin make up a classic zone in the whitewater realm, the Osola is a standout for those looking to get a big dose of fresh air and altitude adrenaline while going up and certainly falling down the valley. A big thanks to Olaf Obsommer for the tales of woe and to Toro Rogenmoser for quality snaps and the temporary full-face loan.

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Injisuthi - South Africa

Chris Lee near the source of the Injisuthi - Kwazulu Natal, South Africa

South Africa's Central Drakensberg remains a fortress of cliff peaks backing up high against the mountain plateaus of Lesotho. Nightly thunderstorms in the summer are good news for paddlers when big drainages like the Umkomas, Bushmans and Buffalo rivers start pumping. Coming straight from the source as one big artery of the Tugela River are the quality drops found on the Injisuthi.


Grahame Henebry gets the goods at 7am

This highly rain dependent creek comes to life in January and February in a matter of hours when rainclouds creep over the peaks and position themselves low overhead. Getting on it early morning after a storm is optimal and nobody has this practice down better than Chris Lee and the crew from Four Rivers rafting nearby. As another day pushing rubber was in their midst, five of us bared a four am wake up call after listening to the rain rage for most of the night.


Sunrise and good views.

The drive begins with a windy road up the Injisuthi valley past numerous local villages. An easy reminder for the takeout is the washed out bridge which you cross just prior to the road climbing steeply. You can turn right across from the school and venture down a dirt track to park almost at the shore. Back on the main road continue until dirt changes to pavement again and stop when you can see the Injisuthi appearing quite steep at a "gorge pools" pullout sign.


Michelle Basso just below the put-in

It was still nearly dark when we launched out from the pools and straight into the first drop backed up by boulders on both sides. This first boof does not really represent the run as most sections turn into boulder mazes, short slides and narrow canyons. As sun broke over the hills we came to the biggest slide about a third of the way down. A big tree blocks most of the entry but the line works right to left.


A nice wake up hit at the bottom

After here keep an eye out for a steep boulder garden about halfway down the entire run. This rapid is backed up by two wide holes and a giant rock on the right with pin potential at the bottom. Our water level made this section a good place to scout. If the water is low you will become quite aware of more sieve/pin potentials in other places further on down. Also near the end are two easy portages around things looking no-so-nice. As the Injisuthi faded to the flats, the boys got to work late but still had the whole day ahead of them. If you are heading to the rivers of Natal keep the Injusuthi on the list when the rains are heavy. Thanks to Jackie Fourie and Chris Lee for the base camp in the beautiful Drakensberg.




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Tsitsa River, Transkei - South Africa

Enjoying another face full on the Tsitsa River- South Africa

The Tsitsa River is a natural frontier between the once Transkei homeland and the Eastern Cape region. Still today in its entirety down to the Indian Ocean, the Tsitsa flows through a wild and remote region of South Africa.

Before joining together 3 major tributaries which form South Africa’s 3^rd largest Mzimvubu River, the lower reaches of the Tsitsa run through an impressive gorge full of multi-day challenges. This section has seen few paddlers ever and requires a rope rappel into the gorge below the largest waterfall on the river.

Upper Tsitsa Falls

However quite a ways upstream, the homestead now belonging to Adriaan Badenhorst sits just above another Tsitsa waterfall and is the ultimate base in exploring Transkei whitewater. Above and below the falls is Adi’s homerun, where a perfect horseshoe in the river makes a 4km boulder garden feel like any true creek mission. Once out of the gorge, a short walk across the maize field will return you back to cold beers, kerosene lanterns, meat on the braai and billy the pet goat.

Beware of the no-good boat eating goat

Finding the Upper Tsitsa is simple. Head for the town of Maclear and follow the signs for Tsitsa Falls which are about 25km past town. Another 7km on the dirt puts you at Adi’s homestead which will be hard to leave if the rivers in the area are pumping.

The falls at high water

Chances are you will have a personal guide if you show up for the home run, but should you not, put in where the bridge below Adi's house crosses the road. From here a few rapids serve as a warmup before portaging the falls on river left. Once into the gorge, the first rapid below the falls is ran from the right. Take care of some siphon rocks at the lead-in.

Another difficult rapid containing a siphon on river right is not far below. However a sweet boof is waiting on the left.

Adriaan B. boofs in the second major rapid

The rest of the Tsitsa homerun remains technical but easy to boat scout out on your way down. After a low angle slide the river eases. At a right bend in the river take out where the climb out looks relatively easy. Unfortunately like all the rivers in the area, the car won't be near the shore.

Soon after, the Tsitsa joins the Pot River downstream and continues to be an excellent whitewater engagement. Be prepared for a longer day including map logistics and off road driving if you venture further down. Of course lapping the Tsitsa homerun while chilling at the farm is a fine example of what Transkei whitewater has to offer. The (other) Mooi, Pot, and Tina rivers are close by if you are keen for un-established creeking in this beautiful isolated region of South Africa.

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Inxu River, Transkei - South Africa

Tyler Brandt gets the Inxu 50' in the heart of Transkei - South Africa

Approaching the whitewater of South Africa one’s mind will wander with the details of a country so vast it's hard to remember that you're in a place nicknamed the Dark Continent. Approaching from the west, our own journey into South African rivers began as Namibian desert was replaced by a windy Cape and pristine ocean. It would be an unplanned route through a diverse part of Africa. Our destination was to be the rivers of the Transkei.

Once a designated homeland during South Africa’s harsh apartheid, the Transkei still remains a place where time and beauty are about as relaxed as the dotted tribal villages laying beneath the Drakensberg mountains. A two week exposure to some of the most unknown rivers in the country with a perfect setting and good friends.

The Inxu was paddled once before back in 2006 when Adriaan Badenhorst was beginning to make the Transkei a permanent place called home. Coming from a life spent on South African rivers, Adrian found SA’s final chapter for whitewater exploration on his new doorstep.

Near the town of Maclear the tributaries of the Umzimvubu fall from the high plateau through unseen gorges. Although many sections and other rivers remain to be explored, the Inxu has all the characteristics of a serious classic. A relatively easy shuttle puts you paddling along tranquil grassland before entering a quality boulder strewn gorge and eventually two bomb drops of 50’ and 35’ respectively.

Basso - Inxu 35'

Adriaan and a friend would have the perfect flow to claim the big falls there own, but at the end of a long day everyone in the first decsent left the second waterfall downstream for another day. So the time would arrive nearly 2 years later when our group would make the claim.

The Inxu would not go down without at fight from the rain gods who were playing water levels away from the season and leaving us waiting in wonder. In the end we became somewhat battered and wishing for a higher flow that would not come. And so we paddled under sunny hot January skies with some boneyard sections and tight lines on the falls.

A sincere thank you goes out to Adriaan and his new wife Angela for the awesome hospitality in their soon to be famous highland adventure destination. For more information leave your guidebook at home and just go to where South Africa becomes the Transkei.

www.tsitsafalls.com

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Nile 2 Zambezi - An African road trip

Davey O'Hare in a safe place on #9 Zambezi River - Zambia

Two of the worlds most impressive rivers are found in Africa. But anyone who has attempted to make the journey to both The White Nile of Uganda and Zambia’s Zambezi in one go will soon realize they are huge distances apart from each other. An expensive airplane ride can eat up those miles in a matter of hours and is the common cure. But should you be lucky enough to make the haul across 4 countries and 2000 miles of potholes and mud ruts by car, you will lose yourself in an epic journey that makes kayaking only a portion of the whole adventure.

From Uganda we made bold decision to drive west around Lake Victoria and into the small country of Rwanda. Although this would be a shorter distance on paper, this route would eventually land us in remote western Tanzania, where roads became dots on the map - 4x4 African style.

In the beginning the drive was beautiful and paved nicely, going up into Ugandan hills until we reached the terraced hillsides of Rwanda. Here there were people everywhere including all over the road. Rwanda has one of the highest population densities in Africa and it definitely felt like it. But we should have not taken the pavement for granted, once into Tanzania nice roads vanished into dirt ruts and soon became an 800 mile thrash along Lake Tanganyika. Definitely off the beaten path.

For most of the next 4 days our sturdy Toyota Hilux was holding its own in full time 4x4 as road became legendary with stunning scenery, steep rock crawls, and nasty deep mud pools. As we climbed up and over one small mountain range, we got introduced to the meaning of "the wet season" as mother Africa decided to send a crazy tropical rain storm our way… as if we didn’t have enough to worry about. As with most storms here in Africa when it rains, it rains with authority and our road became a small river in a matter of minutes.

After a low point of thinking we would be stuck forever in the African outback, the road began to improve during our final push to the Zambian border. On our way we crossed the Malagarasi River, beautiful and ready for a multi-day expedition if you don’t mind….Hippos! One of the biggest obstacles holding back the majority of river explorations throughout, Africa are these gigantic aggressive beast who love to hang out together in flat water.

Zambia! Once on the Great Eastern road, we rejoiced in potholed pavement for the next 1000 miles and pushed long and hard to Livingstone in Zambia’s southwestern corner. As one of the 7 natural wonders of the world plummet from the countryside and into the gorge below it was refreshing to know we had arrived before the river had yet to go past ridiculously high levels. This year the river is on its way up quickly but is still providing some of the best waves in the world.

Nico Chasing - still a permanent Zambezi resident with plenty of airmiles on #8.

With the immediate possibility of the White Nile falling victim to damming, the classic Zambezi gorge represents no man’s land, a border into the abyss which separates two countries. Perhaps a dam one day far far away, but until then make sure you make the trip to one of the greatest pieces of playable big water boating on the planet.

Michelle Basso trying to settle the beast

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