Rio Mendoza - Argentina

November brings hot temperatures and lots of quality whitewater to paddle in Argentina.

The headwaters of the Rio Mendoza flow east from the shadows of Cerro Aconcagua, South America's highest mountain located in the high central Andes. From its confluence with the Rio Tupungato, the Mendoza loses its steep gradient but grows to a meduim-high volume as it descends into the arid wine making province and city of also the same name. The city of Mendoza is a historical Argentinean location with a wonderful climate, ridiculously cheap steaks, and very friendly locals who will push your understanding of the Spanish language to the limit. Once you head west from town on the major Chile-Argentina road (Ruta 7) you will soon find yourself in the small village of Potrerillos and the home of Argentina Rafting. The actual village of Potrerillos was recently moved to a higher elevation so that more water could be stored in the lake created from the dam on the Rio Mendoza. Soon Argentina Rafting will also make the move to a new location, but for now Martin and Erica Moreno and their fellow paddling crew have a great place to eat, camp and lounge at while you get some good melt-water playboating done.


Martin Moreno at home on the Rio Mendoza.

Water levels are low in October, however through November and on into Mendoza's hot summer you can expect clear blue water and many sections containing fluffy (III-IV) waves and holes. The Rio Mendoza is worth visiting even if Chilean paddling is your main goal. Those who have an extra weekend waiting for the plane in Santiago can jump on an easy 3hr bus over the Andes and be on the river by the afternoon. The views of Aconcagua, Puente del Inca, and other high mountain scenery won't be wasted even if your kayak never sees the water! Although access and information can be limited, Argentina is another paddling destination that will intrigue those looking for somewhere new. They may take a route to an opposite ocean than Chile, but rivers like the Rio Mendoza, Diamante, Atuel and Neuquen in central Argentina have more secrets to reveal. For more information about rivers and the sport of kayaking in Argentina, check out: www.kayakero.com.ar. (in Spanish)


Rafting the Argentina way means lots of good wine and steak before embarking under a full moon......

Pichilemu - Chile

Surf's up in Chile...... photographs by David Manning.

After hearing rumors about Chile's epic Ocean surf, Michelle and I again loaded up our van with fellow roadies David, Scott and Dirty Tom and headed back north 7 hrs from Pucon to Pichilemu on the Chile's central coast. The boys were just back from the Rio Futaleufu and Pichilemu would be their last destination before they flew back home to Calgary. When we arrived, we discovered a fun little Chilean beach town well known by Santiascos who flock here during their holidays in January and February. When we arrived however, the beaches were scarce and most turistas had already returned home to their normal routines. First up for us was finding a cheap hotel and then renting some more beach toys. Nearing the end of our voyages, our kayaks were limited to one creeker and one playboat between a bunch of us. David and Dirty Tom found some surf boards to rent the next morning so we were excited to see some hilarious carnage over the next few days.


Dirty Tom and David with their Pichilemu rental sticks

Pichilemu has two significant beaches which wrap around some rocky points and create amazing left to right breaks. Most people would be happy at the main beach in the town, however Punta del Lobos is about 10km to the South and there the waves are even larger. Before he took to board surfing, Dirty Tom fired off some astonishing rides in the Dagger Nomad creeker that Scott was taking back to Canada.


Tom Faucher showing how a creekboat can surf the Ocean.

Overall the beaches and waves of Pichilemu offer a change from the inland mountains and rivers. If you are traveling through Chile with some paddling friends check this spot out. Pichilemu is about 100km west from the Panamerican Highway (5) and there are multiple access routes in between the cities of Rancagua and Teno. Learn more about surfing Pichilemu here.


Dropping in with the Dagger FX

Rio Liucura (Pucon) - Chile

The Rio Liucura is a special river near the town of Pucon located in the heart of Chile's lake district. The Liucura creates a backdrop against the smoking white cone of Volcan Villarica, another looming active volcano always present to those who come to Pucon and experience the awesome and beautiful rivers in the surrounding area.


Volcan Villarica overlooking the streets of Pucon, Chile.

Although fairly flat, the Liucura grows quickly from a small creek to raging big water fiesta when it rains, but even then it still remains class III and is an excellent place to develop your paddling skills. Rodrigo Tuschner is one of the few local paddlers from Pucon and last year he opened Kayak Pucon with his girlfriend Emanuela Passi. Located on the main street in Pucon, his shop is hard to miss and he along with his friend Sergio Vidal are excellent instructors and freestylers. If you want to rent a kayak, take a lesson or be guided around some of the rivers around the area, check out their shop on the main street running through Pucon. Also at www.kayakpucon.cl


Emma Passi in front of Kayak Pucon.

Most people who come to visit Pucon (aka. Pluton) are either tourists from abroad (who come all year around) or wealthy Chileans from Santiago who flock by the thousands in January and February for summer vacation. By this time however the rain has stopped and most rivers around lose their water fast. However, when the Rio Liucura comes down, a small but sweet playspot comes in that you can drive to and hang out all day at during the summer heat. Kayak Pucon usually guides tourists down the Liucura in ducky's twice a day so shuttles can be easy as well.


Rodrigo Tuschner looping on the Liucura.

For Michelle and I, hanging out at the grassy cow pasture on the banks of the Liucura became a special place etched in stone with memories of Chilean friends, vino, parilladas, and ultimately our marriage on February 21, 2004. Thanks to all those whom we shared many good times with while living "pura vida" in Pucon. See some of our wedding pictures here.


Michelle, Sergio, Miguel and others in the eddy at the Liucura playspot.

Rio Maichin - Chile

Michelle Basso heads into the final class IV rapid on the Rio Maichin, Chile.

The Rio Maichin is a Chilean river always providing local and visiting paddlers alike with something special to enjoy along this beautiful stretch of water. A dozen or so tributaries flow into this gentle valley which runs parallel with the international Chile-Argentina boundary before picking up in gradient and officially forming the Rio Maichin. At the end of this 20 km section, the river joins the main Trancura river valley and makes a final journey down to Lake Villarica and the town of Pucon. It is true that the Maichin does not contain the vertical walled class V action found on the other local creeks, yet still the river is able to bring together kayakers of all abilities. In the summer it is common to find intermediate paddlers possibly having their first Chilean whitewater experience, while expert kayakers may follow along running this river in combination with the nearby class V Rio Puesco.


The class V Rio Puesco can be a simple addition to your paddling day on the Maichin, as both rivers are less than 45 minutes apart.

From Pucon, this class III-IV run (with one potential class V) is less than an hour away on mostly paved road and can be paddled late into the season when many other local runs get too low. Head east along route 119 following the Rio Trancura towards the next principal town of Curarrehue (pronounced Kura-way-way). As you head down the main street look for a left turn which directly crosses a bridge spanning the Rio Trancura/Puesco (If you miss this turn the main road will continue past town and up the pass towards the Rio Puesco and the Argentinean border). This secondary road turns to dirt and winds along grassy fields for about 5km until it comes to the bridge high above the Rio Maichin. Stop here and you can asses the flows in the flatwater canyon below. About 50m past the bridge take the turnoff road downstream 1.5km to the take-out. This area is private property so camping and hanging out isn't really appropriate unless you have permission. Park a shuttle vehicle out of the way and return back to the main road (at the bridge) that follows high above river right for another 5 km until it drops back down to the river.


Blasting through the Maichin's excellent middle section.

At this point begins the principal 6 km whitewater section. Jump in your kayak and enjoy a couple of medium drops before you reach an apparent horizon line and the hardest (IV-V) rapid on the run. On the river left shore you can either scout or portage this rapid as well as set safety directly along the undercut left wall. From this point on the river is generally read-and-run except for one technical rapid about halfway in where you can assess the situation easily on river right. Shortly after the final drop the road bridge will appear high above and the river is flat for the final kilometer to the take-out.