Nile 2 Zambezi - An African road trip

Davey O'Hare in a safe place on #9 Zambezi River - Zambia

Two of the worlds most impressive rivers are found in Africa. But anyone who has attempted to make the journey to both The White Nile of Uganda and Zambia’s Zambezi in one go will soon realize they are huge distances apart from each other. An expensive airplane ride can eat up those miles in a matter of hours and is the common cure. But should you be lucky enough to make the haul across 4 countries and 2000 miles of potholes and mud ruts by car, you will lose yourself in an epic journey that makes kayaking only a portion of the whole adventure.

From Uganda we made bold decision to drive west around Lake Victoria and into the small country of Rwanda. Although this would be a shorter distance on paper, this route would eventually land us in remote western Tanzania, where roads became dots on the map - 4x4 African style.

In the beginning the drive was beautiful and paved nicely, going up into Ugandan hills until we reached the terraced hillsides of Rwanda. Here there were people everywhere including all over the road. Rwanda has one of the highest population densities in Africa and it definitely felt like it. But we should have not taken the pavement for granted, once into Tanzania nice roads vanished into dirt ruts and soon became an 800 mile thrash along Lake Tanganyika. Definitely off the beaten path.

For most of the next 4 days our sturdy Toyota Hilux was holding its own in full time 4x4 as road became legendary with stunning scenery, steep rock crawls, and nasty deep mud pools. As we climbed up and over one small mountain range, we got introduced to the meaning of "the wet season" as mother Africa decided to send a crazy tropical rain storm our way… as if we didn’t have enough to worry about. As with most storms here in Africa when it rains, it rains with authority and our road became a small river in a matter of minutes.

After a low point of thinking we would be stuck forever in the African outback, the road began to improve during our final push to the Zambian border. On our way we crossed the Malagarasi River, beautiful and ready for a multi-day expedition if you don’t mind….Hippos! One of the biggest obstacles holding back the majority of river explorations throughout, Africa are these gigantic aggressive beast who love to hang out together in flat water.

Zambia! Once on the Great Eastern road, we rejoiced in potholed pavement for the next 1000 miles and pushed long and hard to Livingstone in Zambia’s southwestern corner. As one of the 7 natural wonders of the world plummet from the countryside and into the gorge below it was refreshing to know we had arrived before the river had yet to go past ridiculously high levels. This year the river is on its way up quickly but is still providing some of the best waves in the world.

Nico Chasing - still a permanent Zambezi resident with plenty of airmiles on #8.

With the immediate possibility of the White Nile falling victim to damming, the classic Zambezi gorge represents no man’s land, a border into the abyss which separates two countries. Perhaps a dam one day far far away, but until then make sure you make the trip to one of the greatest pieces of playable big water boating on the planet.

Michelle Basso trying to settle the beast

View Zambezi River (IV-V) in a larger map

Ragati River - Kenya

James Savage. A first descent of the Ragati slides, Kenya

The Ragati River is another primary artery to the Mt. Kenya drainage system that we were hoping was going to put out impressive results. On this side of the mountain the bedrock had somewhat changed from the pool drop nature so commonly found in the lava-like gorges nearby. Instead, the Ragati was known to have super slides one would hardly expect in this part of the world.



A weekend came about with the crew ready, and water levels ideal so we set out on a ground mission first to see what we could find on foot. Already the night before when the topo map was on the table, Simon had given us his word that there would be plenty more slides above the 1 and a half he had ran when he was here in 2004.



Within an hour from basecamp, we were walking easliy along the shore getting some interesting looks from local farmers, mothers and children who were least expecting 3 muzungus thrashing through their banana and coffee plantations while checking the river. From where the 1st descents of the slides left off in 2004, the original slide conqueror and myself headed further up the drainage to discover more of the goods that had been waiting patiently for our return.



The Ragati slides start of with a 200+ foot two-tiered monster slide that began with scouting discussions of ' yeah right' into 'ugly-hmmm' into 'interesting' as we neared top. Probably a good thing that we were walking from the bottom up. But in the end some of us were only willing to give the top part a go and this was going require more safety that we had. Beyond, the slides again pick up in size until Bamboocha hurls another 100+ feet of instant gravity loss your way.


Simon Coward drops in.

After Bamboocha, a few smaller ramps appear and a tight class V slot drop makes the Ragati feel like more than just a African supersized waterpark. Over a dozen slides later, including a grand finale on the original from 2004 that caused a near decapitating from the fierce shore vegitation, we were down on the flats with darkness fast approaching. The Ragati is currently one of Kenya's sweetest paddling discoveries. Until the next group appears, it is a fine symbol in the search for quality creeking in a region where whitewater has no face.

Muragua River - Kenya

Simon Coward likes his boofs big. Muragua River - Kenya

After the past few weeks in Kenya it is hard to believe that I left Europe only a month ago feeling confident that I would not be missing nor needing my trusty Dagger Nomad that I had practically been living inside since June. Impressions of African big waves and endless blunt movies that have swamped the internet highway over the past few years had me mislead. But it was my friend Simon back home that had always been the secret source of the truth. Nearly 4 years prior, his adventure insights brought him and a kiwi crew to a paddling destination far from ordinary.


Lower Muragua Gorge.

Lying on the equator, Kenya is more than a country of grasslands and grazing zebras. Africa's second highest, Mt. Kenya and many other mountain ranges, contribute to a spectacular landscape and provide an enormous area of altitude and water that has to drain somewhere, somehow. No longer is it a fanciful thought. Kenya can convert you from vacation bluntboater to a creekboater in a matter of days.



A massive component to Kenyan river exploration has come from Marc and James Savage. Beginning as a bush pilot and mountaineer, Marc founded whitewater rafting and adventure tourism in Kenya. Marc and family are keeping things active with a river base paradise on the Tana river. However James is keen in the kayak and his goal of river exploration remains.

First descents are vast in this country, but the Muragua River was one of Simon and crew's original mission discoveries. Years later and none kayakers more it is still a short but swift gut punch of rad.


James Savage close to home.

The Muragua appears after miles of bumpy road at a bridge over a sweet slide to start things off. The friendly locals quickly gathered in conversation about today's unexpected entertainment. Eyes, hoots and smiles were to be the norm.



The Muragua is tight at the beginning, but soon opens up to what any adventure paddler seeks. Easy access, clean drops, and a highlight waterfall.


Meat-2-the-vapor.

Further downstream beyond the KenGen dam, the Muragua plummets itself off an 80 foot waterfall shelf and into a gorge full of giant drops still waiting for a kayak to show up.



Here the access can be an issue as we found ourselves swatting through thorn bushes and sliding down drainage cracks to get down below the entry falls. There is so much action in this one drainage alone it is hard to imagine what could be lying just around the next corner or over the next hill. But already nearing 5:30 the sun is low and the scale of the whitewater ahead must be saved for another time and day. Wearing the red soil as the color of Kenya on our hands and clothes, we return to Sagana after a special day of whitewater in Africa.




View Maragua River (IV) in a larger map

Soča (S - Gorge Cataract) - Slovenia

Diego Budeguer in the heart of the Soča River - Slovenia

The Soča river is far from being a secret to the European whitewater scene. For much of a 7 month long season, the Soča remains loyal to road tripping clubs visiting from afar, weekend warriors from neighboring countries, and locals soaking up the summer.

Julian alp views are vantastic.....

Besides the endless spring source welling up deep inside the Julian Alps, the Soča’s biggest attribute is the straight up combination of beautiful surroundings, crystal clear water and natural slalom eddies formed from the unique ghostly shaded karst rock.

Few paddlers leave the Soča unfulfilled. It is considered one of the most beautiful classrooms in whitewater. Even the strongest paddlers find some degree of satisfaction in the perfectly situated rocks, unique boofs and multiple sections of class II-IV.

The quality rapids and technical lines making the Soča a classic are also here. The Soča delivers the goods in a 2km stretch notoriously branded the Siphon Gorge.

The rocks in this stretch are bigger, tighter and can leave you wondering about safe locations on your first few runs down. But eddies always outnumber the siphons, and with good flows and a good group the S-Gorge of the Soča turns into a sweet, endless, boof to eddy playground.

Thanks to Laurent Devigne (FRA), Diego Budeguer and Fabian Bonnano (ARG) for great photos, lines and friendships during our week.

Lower Raundalselva - Norway

Mike Abbott starts off in sun and style, Lower Raundalselva - Norway

The Raundal of Voss is one of those rivers that offers multiple class III-VI sections of whitewater throughout a long season of varying water levels. Throw in some deep gorges, must run boofs, numerous waterfalls, 30 kilometers of river, and Voss's reputation as a creek boater's paradise soaks in. With a past week of high cloud, cold nights and clear skies, the water levels in the area dropped enough to bring the class IV-V Lower Raundalselva onto the minds of a few of us.



The Raundalselva needs manageable flows of around 20 or less cms to keep the nerves calm in a few not-so-clean boulder chokes within some deep walls. Even before you get into your boat, you are staring down the entry to a beautiful 20 foot waterfall. You can either go left for the boof here, or maybe try your luck down a clean slide on the right of the rock island.


Put in huck choices - and how about that sunny weather!


Mike with the new Palm max floatation PFD.

Not too far into the run comes an unappealing no-scout drop with big rocks taking up the majority of the horizon line. Again you have the choice to boof the left pinch and bounce off a rock at the bottom or go right through a winding corridor that puts you close to some sieves. Another drop worthy of mention lies just downstream and has an undercut rock blocking half of the exit on the right. The river stays fairly gorged up from this point on but offers slippery green covered rocks on each shore to scout or portage for the rest of the run.


Andy Phillips enjoying his relaxing float in the pool between drops.


Greg Dashper - happy times.


Michelle Basso - left line highlight waterfall close to the end of the gorge.

You will know you are nearing the end of the gorge when the gradient flattens out and the pools become clear and large. After the walls disappear paddle the flatwater for a short distance and take out on your right at some red army buildings. Thanks to Benjamin Hjort and the riverkore boys for the good lines, humour and a most perfect day in Voss.

Hemsila - Norway

Huck happy on Norway's rare flowing Hemsila.

Hemsedal is one of Norway's premier winter freeride resorts, but in the summer things quiet down substantially. This is the current home of the always impressive Jim 'farmer diesel' Cummings. Besides Motocross and Mtn Biking hard, he is out there making friends with the locals and trying to avoid the 1500 dollar speeding-in-Norway fines while on the prowl for quality class V. The Hemsila just happens to be a top 10 Norwegian creeking gem in Jim's own backyard. However a stingy dam and whole lot of rain this summer has made it difficult in finding the perfect 15-25 cms needed for a safe passage through its double canyons. South African, Hendri Coetzee brought the sun with him on his few days off from work and we converged in Hemsedal to make things happen.



Our first attempt at the Hemsila with a flow of over 40 cms resulted in consistent pucker factor and portage party along the canyon walls. But after 2 days of patient waiting in rare dry sunny heat, the level nearly dropped in half and we were in business as long as the dam kept their gates open for one more day.



The Hemsila starts off in mighty fashion with a tight slot drop to begin the first canyon, letting you know right away the importance on having water levels that aren't pushy.





One portage will probably happen in this warm up canyon before things open up again providing easy scouting to the many slides and drops that lead up to the REAL canyon.
At this point there is an alternative takeout bridge above a monster drop (portage), followed by a 100+ footer slide requiring a crucial left line to set you up for the final plunge.



From this point on the Hemsila turns into a class V box gorge puzzle that your skills and patience need to solve in the remaining 4-5 kms. Two must run rapids in this canyon still have eddies to slow things down and help you get a fix on the lines downstream.



In the final kilometer before the town of Gol comes a slide with a vicious hole followed by 3 waterfalls. If your body and mind decide to conquer these final drops make sure you are feeling invincible and there is plenty of safety. A water level in our opinion of less than 20cms would also make things easier. On our way back to Hemsedal came good feelings about the descent and our accomplishments. As we drove by the dam the water had already been turned off, meaning we had chosen the perfect day of the summer to paddle Norway's classic Hemsila.



Thanks to my beautiful wife for the awesome photos.


View Hemsila (V) in a larger map

Myklebustelva - Norway

How I spent my summer vacation..... Jordie Mckenzie, Myklebustelva - Norway

The Norway whitewater experience is always an adventure full of sweet lines and surprises. This year has been no different except for the fact the tap has yet to be turned off. Many rivers are still banging out huge flows. With lots of water brings the search for new descents in a land where water runs down anything with gradient. Norweigans are proud of their land and those who go hunting for the treasure of slides and drops sometimes find secret spots right in the backyard. Øivind Kleppe and Nils Hjelme were kind enough to tell us of their secret after work spot. Having seen only a handful of descents, the Myklebustelva is a tributary to the classic Valdolla, lurking in fjords of More Og Romsdal.



Although only given directions by mouth, an hour's stroll through mossy enchanted forest revealed more than I had hoped for. A dozen or more drops packed into less than a kilometer of distance - a park and slide 5 star hotel. After 3 bombs down a run with only small pools keeping the drops from being one giant slide, safe to say the grin on everyone's face was wider than the crystal creek they had just paddled.




Just like back home, the Norway 'mission' will always be here.....long live the search.

Bighorn River, AB - Canada

Crescent Falls backdrop with Mikkel St. Jean making the Curtain Call - Bighorn River, Alberta.

The Bighorn River is a classic waterfall tributary of Alberta’s North Saskatchewan headwaters. In a setting amongst the raw jagged Central Canadian Rocky Mountains, the Bighorn has found away to erode itself into a deep layered gorge with 6 beauty drops within its walls. The run is heavily dependent on snow in an area commonly low in annual amounts. This usually makes for a limited window of opportunity for paddling. However, the endless thunderstorms rolling across from BC currently had this waterfall paradise pumping.



Among the usual suspects for this mission were Jordie and Jen McKenzie, Manilow, Chris McTaggart, Nelson BC local Mikkel St. Jean still waiting for levels in BC to drop; and fresh off a second descent of 100ft Johnson Falls was heavy hitter Logan Grayling complete with bloodshot eye and the savage mustache.


Logan Grayling boofs must run freefall #5

Getting to the Bighorn is easy requiring you to travel west along the David Thompson highway through Nordegg towards the Banff National Park Boundary. If you are coming from the opposite direction head north on highway 93 from Lake Louise and then head east towards Nordegg at the Saskatchewan Crossing turnoff. The Bighorn River crosses the highway through giant culverts at the end of Abraham Lake. You can camp and leave a car here and then continue back towards Nordegg looking for the Crescent Falls turnoff just down the road. The road up to Crescent Falls is only a few miles and ends at a recreation area parking lot.

Only a few steps more will put you at the brink of a 70 footer that is still waiting for someone to claim this monster for a first D. Most of us regard the problem with Crescent Falls to be all the loose sediment of sharp rock which explodes out from the boils when flows are most appealing. If ever you were going to wear a motorcycle helmet complete with visor off a big huck this would be the one. A bonus for your eyes is just beyond and another 40+ feet to go.

Curtain Call was first run by Rob Evans-Davies about a decade ago and has since seen a few more descents over the years. Again the line on this waterfall varies with water levels and this time it looked to be center left with left control.

Chris McTaggart lost the fight with his paddle shaft on Curtain Call

Beyond the second waterfall you are surrounded by deep walls on your way down to the Particle Accelerator. Here the river ramps down into a narrow slide that ends in a big hole complete with pinched exit and a scary cave on the left. At lower flows you might just get your bow up before the hole and boof. However the current level made for some impressive downtime as saftey pondered the resurfacing whereabouts of each mystery man.

Just beyond here the final 3 waterfalls lay in succession about 100 yards from each other. 10 foot Squirrel Nuts, 25 foot Freefall, and then a final 20 foot plunge into a pool. All of these are pretty much unportageable unless you like cliff jumping from twice the height of each drop. Finally a half hour of class III awaits on your way down to the takeout.

Jenny McKenzie on the final drop of the Bighorn.

To best judge the flows for the Bighorn have a look to see if any water at all is flowing through the second culvert. If there is just a bit the levels are good, none means the level is low, and lots means the river is high. Standing at the top of the two first falls will also give you an idea.

View Big Horn River (IV-V+) in a larger map